By Carrie Honaker · Photos courtesy of the Sint Maarten Tourism Bureau, Bronwyn Knight, and Elliott Howell
Forty-eight feet down, looking up from the sandy ocean floor where the JabJabs — a once floating bar, now artificial reef — lists starboard, I'm surrounded by life. Moray eels, lobsters, rays, and two juvenile reef sharks swim in the cerulean waters around me. The sharks are close enough to touch with my camera mount and more curious than adults that haven't learned fear.
Life has been on repeat since landing: waking early for some mango and johnnycake, watching the sun come up over the ocean, assembling dive gear, boating out to one of the many wrecks or reefs off the waters of Sint Maarten (also known as Saint Martin), making my way down the line from the mooring ball to the vibrant world under the sea.
The 37-square-mile island, home to two countries, is friendly, above and below the water. Smiles are abundant, words of welcome fill the air, life is peaceful. The only marking of a division between French and Dutch territories is a monument on the roadside.
To the north, travelers will find some of the tastiest eats and lively beaches. To the south, cosmopolitan bars, clubs, and casinos dot the landscape. High-energy outings ziplining across the pinnacle of the island and leisurely days soaking up rays on the beach, staring at those almost-too-beautiful waters, mingle for the perfect getaway amongst the friendliest people I've ever met.
Because strangers are just friends you haven't met yet on Sint Maarten.
Soak Up Some Island Life
Plane spotting from Maho Beach must occupy some space on your itinerary. On this island, you can sit on the beach with an umbrella-adorned drink as airplanes come in for a landing directly above you. The beaches are all open to the public, and there's a lot of them. For a quieter day, head over to Mullet Bay on the Dutch side where the locals like to go on Sundays, or for clothing-optional sand, hit up Orient Bay Beach.
Just off the sand, adventure awaits. Parrot Ville provides sanctuary for 27 types of birds from all over the world. Within the screened enclosure, children and adults equipped with a cup of food meet the birds as they land on shoulders and hands for a bit of apple and seed. George Parotte, owner and bird advocate, can be seen walking around helping identify the birds, sharing their names, and relating the history of the island where his family has lived for generations.
Tours abound by sea or land. Outfits like Aquamania Adventures in Simpson Bay on the Dutch side offer excursions to nearby islands, sunset cruises, water sport rentals, scuba diving trips, and private sailing charters.
Be The Change Foundation partnered with 12 local artists to paint the ColorMeSXM murals around town. Now referred to as the Philipsburg Art Walk, it features large-scale paintings between the bustling shops, restaurants, and historical sites. Each mural has a scannable QR code that links to the artist's biography and inspiration for the mural.
Immerse yourself in the culture of the island by taking a steel pan class with Mighty Dow, called "Dow" by everybody. Dow's Musical Foundation in Philipsburg preserves the legacy art of steel pan drumming through summer camps and workshops. Or try your hand at some Caribbean cooking with classes at The Flavor Academy, where Culinary Institute of America-trained chef Kristin Joseph and her award-winning mixologist husband Paul offer personalized workshops in cocktails and cookery.
The Marigot Markets draw residents and tourists with their bounty of local produce, fish, handcrafted jewelry, island clothing, and abundant spices. Just across the street, a French boulangerie awaits with cases of buttery croissants, crispy palmiers, and baguettes ready for sandwich fillings.
You can also find the island's signature spirit, Guavaberry Liqueur, at a little creole hut in Marigot called Colombier Tradition. Or you can venture deep into Colombier to their production house, and learn how the spirit is grown and crafted, as well as its history from generational distiller Louis Maccow, who produces it with his wife Luz Maria using a top-secret family recipe passed down through the generations.
Or skip it all, grab some snacks and a homemade fruit punch at one of the lolos or roadside food shacks, head to the sand and enjoy some decompression time under the Caribbean sun, far away from the bustle of life.
Dinner Is Served
Between the two sides of the island a cornucopia of international fare awaits. Over 140 nationalities registered among island residents contribute to its reputation as the Culinary Capital of the Caribbean.
On the French side, visit the lolos, open-air shacks serving up variations of Creole barbecue and stews. The most well-known collection sits on Marigot Bay along the waterfront. Rosemary's Creole Seafood, serving since 1978, is a must for its curried goat, plantains, conch creole, and a picture with a smiling Rosemary.
More traditional (according to my taxi driver) are the lolos in Grand Case. Specifically, Ribs Shack (lolo #6 on the right). Park in the lot at the top of Grand Case and follow the scent of intoxicating barbecue. Between the grilled lobster, fried snapper, barbecue chicken, and creole lambi, it will be a difficult decision but a tasty one. The magic is in the freshness of everything from the fish caught that morning to the fragrant sauces redolent with local spices.
The Dutch side has its roadside fare as well. Standouts are Sexy Beef, a green and yellow outpost serving items like Hurricane Conch or skewers of grilled meats with peanut satay sauce; and The Captain's Rib Shack, an open-air food stall situated on Simpson Bay, serving local specialties like barbecued pig tails and fried whole snapper — the brown stew sauce with the snapper is earthy, a little spicy, and full of chunky carrots and potatoes.
In addition to the homey lolos, the island has a number of more elevated dining experiences. The best have tables overlooking the gorgeous water, like L'Oursin at La Samanna where you can book a multi-course tasting in the oldest wine cellar on the island, or engage in an impressionist dining series where the dishes are inspired by French artists.
Indigo Beach Bar and Restaurant overlooks tranquil waters and a mostly unpopulated beach. The accras (saltfish fritters) come to the table golden brown with a pickled pepper sauce that lights up the flavor of the fritters. And the exotic tiramisu is layered with traditional lady fingers with local passionfruit and the lightest cream you'll ever put in your mouth.
The SXM Sunset Groove
The sun sets over cerulean waters as Paul Davis, bar supervisor for Sonesta Ocean Point Resort, mixes up the SXM Sunset Groove with the island's signature spirit, Guavaberry Liqueur. We toast the fading light.
"I meet so many interesting people with stories you can't even believe. I love introducing them to Guavaberry because it's part of the island's culture and history, but it also has such a unique flavor. The first time I sampled it, I knew it would be a permanent part of my cabinet," said Paul.
Recipe: 1 oz. pineapple juice · 1 oz. coconut cream · 1 oz. mango puree · 1 oz. Guavaberry Rum Liqueur · lots of ice cubes. Blend well, pour, garnish, and enjoy.
Getting There, and Where to Stay
From larger hubs like NYC, travelers could score rates as low as $279 round trip, but visitors in smaller markets like the Gulf Coast can expect to pay closer to $600. Rental cars are widely available on the island and run about $20 per day for an economy model. The good news is you don't need an international driver's license.
On the Dutch side sit the Sonesta resorts, a great choice for those looking for something all-inclusive where you have 10 restaurants, three pools (including the zero-entry Edge Pool sitting atop a cliff overlooking Maho Bay), and activities. Ocean Point offers an adults-only experience with three exclusive restaurants, while its sister property Sonesta Maho Beach Resort, Casino & Spa caters to families with live entertainment and water attractions.
On the French side sits Grand Case Beach Club, with its tranquil ocean breezes and gentle waves lapping the secluded beaches. Breathtaking views of Anguilla greet you daily, and the small fishing village of Grand Case surrounding the resort offers a sanctuary of relaxation, along with some top-notch dining.
With abundant sunshine year-round, there isn't a bad time to visit the Friendly Isle. If you're looking for budget prices, be sure to look at booking between May and the end of November. Hurricane season does span some of this time period, but often hotel rates are deeply discounted. Keep in mind Wi-Fi can be spotty, so credit cards are not always reliable. Both sides of the island take U.S. dollars, but the French side will give you the exchange rate for your dollars.
Originally published in Beach Happy Magazine, Volume 10 (Fall 2022). Story by Carrie Honaker. Photos courtesy of the Sint Maarten Tourism Bureau, Bronwyn Knight, and Elliott Howell. Rates and details as published in fall 2022 and subject to change.
