Natai Beach: The Thai Coast Even Thais Don't Know About

By Mike Ragsdale

Anyone even halfway familiar with Thailand has no doubt heard about its famous trademark beaches along Phuket, Krabi, Koh Samui, and Pattaya. And while those beaches have colorful personalities — some more colorful than others — if you're looking for a long, lonely stretch of pristine beach that even few Thais know about, then put Natai Beach into your GPS.

Why Go?

After traveling to more than 50 countries — wedging in as many beaches along the sandy way as possible — Natai Beach on the Andaman Sea ranks among my personal top five, both for its striking natural beauty and its quiet, meditative serenity.

There are no high-rises here, by law, and much of the surrounding land appears to be protected, or at least as of yet undeveloped. What's left is a handful of upscale but low-profile resorts, gorgeous seaside Buddhist temples, remote jungle waterfalls, a few villages, a bajillion coconut-dropping palm trees, and mile after mile of soft, off-white sand.

One afternoon, in the sweltering April sun — one of Thailand's hottest months — I slathered up with SPF 10,000, plugged in my earbuds, and sweated my way along the beach for well over an hour. I never saw another human being.

Palms and driftwood sculptures on the sand at Natai Beach at dusk

The only thing more stunning than the turquoise water lined with endless palm trees is Wat Tha Sai, a teak temple just a few kilometers north. This park is quiet and frequented only by locals seeking a beach picnic paradise.

The carved teak roofline of Wat Tha Sai temple beside the sea

Twelve miles north of Natai Beach is Khao Lampi–Hat Thai Mueang National Park, a long in-and-out drive through a pristine palm tree forest. Pull over just about anywhere and take a trail out to the most reclusive stretch of sand you're likely to ever find. Just watch for cobras — we nearly ran over one.

Your ticket to the park also gives you access to nearby waterfalls, including Tonprai and Namtok Lampee. It's about a 20-minute hike through lush jungle to get to Tonprai waterfall, but it's worth every slippery stone step.

Tonprai waterfall spilling into a jungle pool
A visitor standing on the rocks below a tall jungle waterfall

How Do I Get There?

After you land at Phuket International Airport, rent a car and drive north for about 30 minutes. Thais drive on the right side of the car and the left side of the road, but if that doesn't intimidate you, it's an easy, uncongested drive from the airport to Natai Beach.

Along the way, don't miss the chance to grab lunch or dinner at the Michelin Bib Gourmand–rated Toh-Deang Restaurant by Baan Ar-Jor, right before you cross the bridge connecting Phuket to Phang Nga province.

The glass-walled Toh-Deang restaurant set in a green lawn
A white colonial-era mansion on the Baan Ar-Jor grounds
An overhead spread of Thai dishes on a red table: fried pork belly, curry, rice, and soup

Our incredibly delicious farm-to-table lunch for two cost $34 USD, including tip and tax, and consisted of fried pork belly, fried rice with lump crabmeat, massaman chicken curry with rice, two drinks, two fresh-ground coffees, and homemade Himalayan salted caramel macadamia nut pie for dessert.

The red-tabled dining room at Toh-Deang with open doors onto the garden
A quiet corner of the restaurant with tall green shuttered windows

Where Should I Stay?

My wife and I had no reservations to speak of, so we didn't know what to expect when we pulled up and strolled into the temple-like lobby of Natai Beach Resort and Spa.

The soaring wooden lobby of Natai Beach Resort and Spa

Inspired fountains tumbled down into a massive and modern swimming pool. Meandering stone walkways wound their way through lush tropical grounds, connecting rooms and amenities. Directly in front of the pool, the west-facing beach presented an ever-changing vista, especially at sunset, when the green-glowing fishing boats began to take their nightly positions along the horizon.

The resort pool at Natai Beach Resort and Spa framed by palms at dusk

We loved Natai Beach Resort and Spa so much that we extended our stay twice.

How Much Does It Cost?

We rented a car for two weeks at DriveCarRental.com and picked it up at Phuket International Airport. The total was 22,985 Thai baht, which is $672, or about $48 per day.

The food and drinks served at the resort were both delicious and reasonably priced. If you want to venture out for some legit (and ultra-cheap) street food, go to the town of Khok Kloi, just ten minutes away.

Our spacious beach- and pool-view suite was 2,500 baht per night ($75), including all tax and fees, as well as daily breakfast with our toes in the sand. This steal of a deal was no doubt influenced by COVID-19, and will certainly return to normal levels in time. But back in the U.S., this kind of room, amenities, service, and overall experience would have easily cost $600 or more per night — perhaps even twice that in some places.

Mike Ragsdale seated at a table in the Toh-Deang dining room

Our time at Natai Beach Resort and Spa was one of the best travel deals we've ever enjoyed, and we highly recommend it to anyone looking for a little off-the-beaten-path R&R.

Originally published in Beach Happy Magazine, Volume 9 (Summer 2022). Story and photos by Mike Ragsdale. Prices reflect what the author paid in spring 2022 and have very likely changed.