Beaches Abroad: Saint Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands.
Saint Croix is a tropical island in the Caribbean. It is a part of the U.S. Virgin Islands, an unincorporated U.S. territory.
The island was colonized by the Spanish, British, French, and the Danish — their legacies are reflected in the name of the island and its settlements — before the territory fell into U.S. hands in 1917.
Saint Croix is the largest of the islands in the territory with a population of 41,000, and though the capital of the U.S. Virgin Islands is Charlotte Amalie on neighboring St. Thomas, Saint Croix is nicknamed the Twin City, as the island is book-ended by Frederiksted on the southwest coast and Christiansted to the northeast.
Traversed by the trade winds, the island has multiple ecosystems for such a small geographic area. The west is lush and tropical while the east is drier and more desert-like. There are few streams and natural sources of groundwater, so many homes and buildings collect rainwater for their use.
St. Croix was once a powerhouse of the Caribbean economy, but in recent years, tourism has become the largest industry, with the island badging itself "America's Paradise."
Why go?
With its long sandy beaches, rocks, reefs, and wrecks, St. Croix is a popular destination for sun worshippers as well as snorkelers and scuba divers.
The island is ringed by a wide variety of beaches, long white-sand shores, serene coves and inlets, and tiny picture-perfect patches of sand shaded by seagrape trees and majestic palms.
Every beach on the island possesses a unique character of its own, from Buck Island, the world's only underwater national park, to Cane Bay Beach where only a quarter of a mile from the shore, the seabed plunges to 1,000 ft, making it a global snorkeling and diving destination. For those looking for something a little more glitzy, the hotel at Protestant Cay offers full-service pampering to beachgoers, and the island is home to some of the region's favorite luxury beachfront resorts.
How do I get there?
Being part of a U.S. territory means U.S. citizens don't need a passport to visit, just a driving license or other government-issued ID. Most people arrive in St. Croix by plane, either directly from the mainland to Henry E. Rohlsen Airport (code STX), or for those looking for something a little more exotic, you could descend from neighboring St. Thomas by seaplane into Christiansted's waterfront.
Alternatively, you can take the ferry from St. Thomas to Christiansted. The trip usually lasts about 90 minutes, but it's a good idea to check the weather conditions before traveling as it could be a bumpy and choppy ride.
Direct scheduled flights with national carriers are from Charlotte, Atlanta, and Miami, while cheap seasonal fares can be found from Fort Lauderdale with Spirit Airlines.
Where should I eat?
Crucians, natives of St. Croix, will tell you that what makes their island special is the food. Because of its colonial history, it has been influenced by all those settlers from Denmark, France, Africa, and South America. In recent years, migrants from neighboring islands have brought their local delicacies to the island too.
If you like to eat as the locals do, try a Johnny Cake, a fried bread tradition, enjoyed any time of day. Crunchy on the outside, light and fluffy on the inside, this unleavened bread is kneaded and fried to a crisp golden brown. It's often served with fried chicken or with meats roasted on an open grill and is available at any of the local chicken shacks to be found on the island.
Pot fish and fungi is the unofficial island national dish, but visitors could be mistaken if they thought they were going to get a seafood and mushroom bisque. Pot fish is fried local fish — often red snapper — which is then added to a rich Creole tomato gravy. The fungi referred to here is a cornmeal porridge, more like grits or polenta, cooked with okra.
Of course, an island catering to global tourists also has a wide selection of high-end restaurants and laid-back beach bars and cafés for you to visit too.
One of the most popular eateries is Savant in Christiansted, which serves steaks, seafood, and local delicacies in plush, but not too ostentatious, surroundings.
Out in Cane Bay, Ama, a sustainable seafood restaurant, works with local farmers, fishermen, and divers to create their menu. Diners can make reservations to be seated in the natural grotto or on the deck beside the ocean, making it one of the most romantic spots on Saint Croix.
If you're looking for something even more relaxed, try The Landing Beach Bar, just steps from the turquoise waters and sugar-white sand, and order some tuna bites, a mahi-mahi sandwich, or a jerk chicken salad, all washed down with a local Leatherback Brewing Lima Picanta Ale or a classic Island Life lager.
How much does it cost?
Flights to St. Croix can range from $500 return in high season (December to April) to as little as $100 at other times in the year. Accommodations range in price from $350 to $450 a night for a suite in a luxury beachfront resort to under $100 for a self-catering room in Christiansted.
The currency is the U.S. dollar, but be prepared for sticker shock on some everyday items you are used to at home. There is no Target or Walmart "piling it high and selling it cheap," so expect to pay extra for toiletries, sun creams, and such.
As in any tourist resort, prices for things like meals and drinks can also vary dramatically. A Caribbean beer or local rum punch drink will typically run you $4 to $5 in beach bars or cafés. You will of course pay more to have it delivered on a silver platter, in a frozen glass, to your pool side lounger.
Most bars and restaurants offer a happy hour, with two-for-one deals, discount drinks, and buckets of beer. Because spirits are duty-free, a bottle of Cruzan rum is around $9, so pouring yourself a mixed drink on the balcony or patio of your lodging is a popular choice too.
Where should I stay?
There is no dearth of places, and prices, to choose from to enjoy your stay in St. Croix. From simple B&Bs to luxury resorts, if you are looking to be in the center of the action, head towards Christiansted. For a slower, more local vibe, wind your way to Frederiksted.
There are also beach-side resorts that offer every convenience and amenity you could wish for, all just steps from the warm, clear Caribbean Sea.
The Buccaneer Beach and Golf Resort offers a classic Caribbean feel, plus eight tennis courts, three pools, an 18-hole golf course, a superb spa and three restaurants. This is a popular resort for families, couples, and keen golfers set on 340 oceanfront acres.
In Christiansted, the Sugar Apple B&B, opened as the Fancy Pink Hotel back in 1948, offers simple rooms with kitchenettes and a courtyard pool, and it is a short stroll from all the action and nightlife in the city.
A popular choice for those looking for tranquil relaxation is Cottages by the Sea on the quieter and more remote west end of the island. These cottages are a third-generation family-owned boutique complex of 28 cottages, each with an individual design, size, and décor.
The cottages sit on five acres of waterfront with private access to a clear, calm, pristine sandy beach to while away the hours and watch the spectacular Caribbean sunsets.
They are also well positioned for a day trip to Sandy Point National Wildlife Refuge to learn more about turtles and sea life conservation.
Story by Martin Liptrot.
Originally published in Beach Happy Magazine, Issue 14 — Fall 2023.
